Urfa is also a land of mystery and mysticism, with many religious legends associated with its name. Some say that God tested the patience of Job in a cave near the city. Others tell of a ruler who was cured by a handkerchief that had wiped the brow of Jesus. This is also said to be the birthplace of Abraham, who was saved by a miracle from being put to death by King Nimrod. Although this rich history permeates every corner of the city, nowhere is it more palpable than in its colourful bazaars.What most visitors to Urfa are most interested in after the mosques are these bazaars. While not the biggest in the Middle East, they are still large enough to lose yourself in them for an hour or two, and you will still be able to find plenty of handicrafts. It’s proximity to Syria allows Urfa traders to get the hands on a lot of stuff you won’t find in Istanbul, the best perhaps being the varieties of olive-oil soap from Aleppo.

The bazaars that make up the heart of Old Urfa are actually a huge complex. The labyrinthine passages, streets and gateways that connect the bazaars to one another can be very confusing to the uninitiated, but you soon learn your way around. The main door to the bazaar on Haşimiye Square is like the lid of a trunk filled with treasure. Inside, the bazaar invites you on a journey back in time. In addition to the locals, the bazaar attracts shoppers from the surrounding cities as well day-trippers from Syria.
Urfa's covered bazaar is one of Turkey's finest. Owned by the Rızvaniye and İskenderpaşa foundations, the bazaar has some 50 streets and 3000 employees. The heart of the bazaar is the 16th century Bedesten, also known as Kazzaz Han. Its four main gates open on to Urfa's other bazaars. The covered bazaar is filled with textiles including shawls from Aleppo, Damascus and Iran.

The morning auction

One of the covered bazaar's four gates opens on to the Sipahi Bazaar. Every morning at 10, the bazaar hosts an auction. People bring their carpets, kilims and furs to the auction where they are sold to the highest bidder. The bazaar itself is filled with tiny shops measuring just two metres square that sell mainly carpets, kilims and felt.

If you need a break to build up your energy, head to the Gümrük Han. Built in 1562, the square han features small workshops on its upper level that look down onto a charming courtyard filled with mulberry and plane trees. The town's elderly wile away the hours here playing draughts.

Urfa is deservedly famous for its red pepper, and the İsotçu Bazaar is dedicated to this spicy trade. Indeed, the city has bazaars dedicated to a plethora of items including knives, felt, fur, tents, cauldrons, cotton and armchairs. The most famous of these is the Bakırcılar or Coppersmiths' Bazaar, also known as the Hüsniye Bazaar. Here, you can find handmade copper trays, frying pans, ewers and a variety of gift items.